Rough Diamonds in Jewellery
By Dr. S. K. Tomlinson, guest author
The use of rough (i.e., uncut and unpolished) diamonds in jewellery has gained popularity in the last few years. Although rough diamonds lack the sparkle of traditional cut diamonds, their translucent, earthy appearance appeals to those wanting a more natural and less glitzy look.
Rough gem diamonds undergo minimal processing; they are extracted from any surrounding rock, then cleaned, and sorted. They have a prehistoric quality that their faceted counterparts have lost. Their rugged appearance reminds us that they were formed naturally underground rather than artificially in a factory. The idea that they are, in a way, “untouched” by human hands is a definite attraction. Although diamonds have always been primarily purchased by and for women, jewellery containing rough diamonds has also been marketed to men.
Examples of jewellery by Todd Reed. Click each image to see a high-resolution version.
Rough diamonds are translucent and come in a wide range of shades (e.g., cognac, pink blue, yellow, black, white, and green) and shapes (e.g., octahedra, cubes, dodecahedra, and macles). During their formation, an unusual shape may result if the diamond's crystal growth is disrupted by changes in the external conditions. Although rough diamonds are often angular, they do not always have completely smooth faces; they may have raised or indented triangular growths called “trigons”. Since rough diamonds are not cut into standard shapes, no two rough diamonds look alike. This makes them highly desirable for those wanting unique and personal jewellery.
Due to their many colours and shapes, rough diamonds can be used to make countless different styles of jewellery. For instance, a combination of different coloured rough diamonds can be used to make both bold and subtle patterns. This idea has been applied to create modern-style eternity rings by the use of alternating colours of rough, cubic-shaped diamonds. By contrast, the setting of a single pyramid-shaped diamond can give an “ancient” appearance. The use of a mixture of cut and rough diamonds has also proved particularly popular for rings and pendants. In such jewellery, thin, precious-metal bands containing cut diamonds are often used to “cage” a larger rough diamond, which is either fixed in position or loose within the cage. In the latter case, the cage can sometimes be opened in order to remove the rough diamond. The contrast between the cut and rough diamonds in jewellery that contains both can be very striking.
A well-known designer who uses rough diamonds to create jewellery for both men and women is Todd Reed. Many of his designs feature a combination of rough and cut diamonds, set in a variety of metals. Several of his pieces contain a somewhat “random” appearing arrangement of rough diamond cubes and rose-cut diamonds set in gold. By contrast, and particularly in the case of his rings, he has been known to create more ordered designs using rows of rough diamond cubes, which are sometimes combined with rose-, princess-, or brilliant-cut diamonds. He has also designed many rings featuring a large octahedral rough diamond. All of his pieces are hand fabricated in his Colorado workshop.
Examples of jewellery by Diamond in the Rough. The top two designs are from the “Astra” collection, while the lower two come from the “Iceberg” collection. Click each image to see a (very) high-resolution version.
One company devoted entirely to the creation of rough-diamond jewellery is Diamond in the Rough. Among the diverse styles offered, their “Orielle” collection features many pieces that incorporate rough diamonds via the “cage” approach described above. In their “Iceberg” collection, each jewellery piece contains a large whole octahedral diamond that is half submerged under smaller pavé-set diamonds. In these pieces, the octahedral rough diamond looks like an iceberg, and the pavé-set diamonds look like snow or waves of water. Like Todd Reed's jewellery, all of Diamond in the Rough's jewellery is hand crafted.
Other companies, such as Tiffany & Co. and De Beers, also produce a selection of rough-diamond jewellery alongside their more traditional, cut diamond ranges.
The unique nature of rough diamonds and their versatility for creating novel styles of jewellery is likely to lend them an enduring appeal.